tony
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Post by tony on Mar 10, 2018 11:29:08 GMT -6
I made a trip over to the supply depot and drew out all they had.If I thin it heavily it might be enough. Uncle Tony
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Post by BUCKY on Mar 10, 2018 12:48:01 GMT -6
Why didn't you pick up some olive drab while you were there?? LoL Looks like a nice supply, Uncle T!!!
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Post by Beekster on Mar 10, 2018 12:52:05 GMT -6
don't know about the acrylics, but the HUmbrol isn't bad, perhaps a bit brown but OK considering that there was variation between batches of the original. The Tamiya OD is too dark and green out of the bottle, and always has been though the color has shifted through the years. The Zaloga-approved method of getting the color right is to add some of Tamiya's Dunkelgelb to it, similar to what I do with Model Master enamels.
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tony
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Likes: 787
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Post by tony on Mar 10, 2018 13:13:01 GMT -6
I read that the other day Beek about the Dark Yellow. Thanks Tony PS: I saw a picture of about half a dozen half tracks and everyone was a different shade of OD
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Post by Beekster on Mar 10, 2018 14:24:05 GMT -6
I read that the other day Beek about the Dark Yellow. Thanks Tony PS: I saw a picture of about half a dozen half tracks and everyone was a different shade of OD I don't doubt it. There was variation between batches, and over time all sorts of things could alter the hue: Sun exposure, dirt being ground in, the crew "cleaning" the tank with petroleum distillates like diesel fuel, to name just a few, would change the color. The key is to start with a color that's in that proper range, and let your weathering processes change it further. The problem, at least for enamel users, is that nothing out of the bottle that I am familiar with is quite right. Humbrol comes close. I haven't seen or used the Colourcoats version of OD, which also comes in little tins. That line used to be marketed by White Ensign. But everyone else's enamel Olive Drab formulations are much too green out of the bottle. That's why I start with a dark brownish olive and work lighter with the yellow, the mix getting both lighter and greener as I add yellow. The dark brownish olive base keeps the tone towards the dark khaki side of things while the yellow brings up the green just enough to work.
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Post by Beekster on Mar 10, 2018 17:20:47 GMT -6
I earlier mentioned looking at my Skink and the CDL as comparisons. This is even better: The Skink was painted in Humbrol 155 Olive Drab, which does show somewhat green here under predominantly flourescent light. The CDL was painted using the Braunviolett and Dunkelgelb mix I've been talking about, or rather one possible version of it. The Tulip Firefly in the background was done using Braunviolett, Middle Stone (a lighter shade than Dunkelgelb), and a little Olive Drab 34087. All but the CDL have has their tones altered somewhat by weathering. Though I can't claim that lighting conditions are identical, they were similar when I shot these in-process images of the Skink and the Tulip: You can see how much the color has changed with the weathering process.
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tony
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Post by tony on Mar 10, 2018 17:40:32 GMT -6
Yep I can tell. I went over to the Sherman Shop and check them out when you said something about them. I've got one tin of #155 and the other is #66 which has a grey tint to me,what is it for?
Tony
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Post by Beekster on Mar 10, 2018 18:15:25 GMT -6
I'm not sure, about 66, Tony; it might be a French variation.
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Post by JCON on Mar 11, 2018 0:29:15 GMT -6
Nice supply depot run there Tony!!!
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Post by Dukemaddog on Mar 12, 2018 13:49:11 GMT -6
Good score Tony, but I don't think it's enough. As for the color; I remember the Great Debate in my IPMS club one year as the participants tried to nail down "What color is Olive Drab?".
Another friend of mine use the same technique that the Armed Forces used in WWII: he mixes black and yellow together.
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tony
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Likes: 787
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Post by tony on Mar 14, 2018 20:22:13 GMT -6
And the paint debates go on and on Duke.
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Post by JCON on Mar 14, 2018 21:24:10 GMT -6
Ain't that the truth Unk T???
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