DML Sherman M4A3 (105mm) HVSS #6354

[tony]

I guess this is where to post this?

Found this on the shelf in a blocked closet back there in the hobby room.My brother gave me this as a gift back in 2006 or 2007,he built main battle tanks.

I ran out of SPG's and since every collection needs a Sherman i'll build this one with the help of you Sherman fans so if you've got any advice let it out because I just opened the parts bags and about to start on it.

Tony lee

[JED]

Bookmarked and good luck 👍

[BUCKY]

Cool project, Unc!! Beekster is our resident Sherman guru! Most likely, he can give ya a couple pointers!!

[Beekster]

Are you sure you want to do this? Dragon Sherman kits are wretched and frustrating, with numerous inaccuracies and abysmal instructions. I would go with a Tasca/Asuka M4A3 HVSS hull and a resin turret from the likes of Tank Workshop. While the DS tracks are nice, the return rollers are too large. Here too, the Asuka suspension is dimensionally more accurate.

Yeah, I'm proposing a more expensive route...but in my experience you get what you pay for, and it's worth paying to avoid Dragon wherever possible.

[JCON]

But in the hands of a great builder a Dragon kit can really shine...

[tony]

beekster like I said it was  a gift from my brother that passed away three years ago and I don't plan to spend any money on it.
Turtle tops are not my bag so right out of the box it will be so any inaccuracies don't concern me.I've built a lot of Dragon kits and i'm use to their instructions being a head scratchin puzzle to say the least.

Thanks
Tony lee

[dogfish7 (R.I.P.)]

Cool! I'll watch. Most of mine are Dragon kits too. So I'll watch you struggle.

[reserve]

You might want to look at my composite build in WW2, I pointed out some nasties there. The biggest thing I remember is to make sure you've a nice flat and square surface on both the hull front and the transmission cover assembly before joining them as the molding was deficient on mine. Can't say about the HVSS.

Good luck brother I'm sure this is not anything you can't handle

Regards,
Mark

[JCON]

Commence at will Unk!!!

[tony]

First Update:






Mark so far the fit hasn't been a problem because I always triple check and glue once.
Upper hull dry fits like a glove too, of coarse it didn't at first.

Thanks guys
Tony lee

[JCON]

Excellent start Unk T!!!!

[BUCKY]

Way to go, bro!!

[Dukemaddog]

This is quite a unique experience watching you build a tank Tony, I'll follow this one with great interest. I love how you're building a tank your brother got you. Looking forward to seeing more; especially given how great everything looks so far.

[Beekster]

So far, so good! Now, you have posted this thread in Post-War but in truth you aren't limited to that. All M4A3 105mm tanks were built by Chrysler Defense Arsenal, and production of the 105mm tanks with HVSS began at CDA in September of '44. However, the track used was the single-pin T66 at that time. Small numbers of tanks with the T80 as seen on the box did appear in the final weeks of the war (production from December, 1944 at CDA). The features in the kit limit your serial number choices, since as configured the tank could only have been built in December of '44. in January, the 2-piece armored exhaust deflector was added, the forward lift rings were moved to the edge of the hull, and the bullet splash guards for the sponson and deck-center filler caps were moved forward, flush with the turret side and rear splash rails. The production batch in December would have had serials somewhere in the range 30111764-768 or 30120197-0319. A total of 128 M3A3 105mm HVSS tanks were built at CDA in December of 1944. Regardless of time period and markings, the serials would remain the same.

For the Korean War period, it is however highly likely that the tank would have received several updates such as the armored exhaust deflector and first-aid kit on the hull side.

[dogfish7 (R.I.P.)]

You writin all this down?

[JEFF]

Well since you asked,I'm pretty sure it needs to be Green. Hope that helps.

Bring it, Tony. Great start, Bub.

[Beekster]

Feb 13, 2018 16:52:45 GMT -6 JEFF said:

Well since you asked,I'm pretty sure it needs to be Green. Hope that helps.

Bring it, Tony. Great start, Bub.

Actually, no...it needs to be Olive Drab, which has a distinctly brown hue and isn't really green at all.  And for heaven's sake don't go chipping it.  Sherman paint was baked on (both red oxide primer and color coat) and very durable.  Areas of routine wear such as where the crew climbs aboard will buff to a light sheen and dust and dirt won't accumulate there.  But the paint won't wear through to the primer or start to rust unless something breaks through the layers of paint, such as heavy MG fire that bounces off or an antitank round which ricochets.  Howitzer tanks would rarely be exposed to either, as they tended to be kept as fire support assets with the unit HQ.

[reserve]

Nicely done Tony 'tis lookin fine

Do I see a workable suspension and separate tires for the running gear?

Regards,
Mark

[tony]

I wonder why they call that guy "Mr Sherman"??

Update #2








It sure looks like a Sherman to me.

Tony lee

[JCON]

Build it the way you want it Unk, its your build!!! It looks like a Shermie to me too!!! Lol!!!