Post by BUCKY on Aug 26, 2011 21:20:04 GMT -6
This very good idea comes to you courtesy of Darrin, AKA Kustombuilder1
This is AMT's '50 Chevy. Painted with Krylon Fusion Maroon. The kit was molded in a very light tan plastic so that gave me an idea. I took the bed floor, which had the woodgrain molded in, and used an arts and crafts acrylic paint called cocoa with a swab and dry-brushed the highlights. When that was dry, I took actual Minwax stain called "Honey Oak", and spread it over the entire surface. The Minwax didn't react with either the plastic or the acrylic paint.
When that was dry, I covered it with clear urethane for the shine.
I also tested the Minwax stain on a Krylon enamel painted surface after it had cured for 10 days, and the Minwax showed no reaction to the painted surface either. Just spread it out even in thin coats and let it dry for a couple of days.
The Minwax is designed for wood where it soaks in as much as anything, of course you know that, but on a non-porous surface like styrene, or cured gloss enamel, it's kinda like a wash, and will take a while to lay down and dry. With patience, and however many coats you wish to give it for color depth, again waiting for it to dry, you can have a pretty nice simulated wood surface. The arts and crafts acrylic dry-brush is the key to it here I have found. Then give a clear protective spray urethane finish, and you're done!
Thanks for the tip, KB1!!
This is AMT's '50 Chevy. Painted with Krylon Fusion Maroon. The kit was molded in a very light tan plastic so that gave me an idea. I took the bed floor, which had the woodgrain molded in, and used an arts and crafts acrylic paint called cocoa with a swab and dry-brushed the highlights. When that was dry, I took actual Minwax stain called "Honey Oak", and spread it over the entire surface. The Minwax didn't react with either the plastic or the acrylic paint.
When that was dry, I covered it with clear urethane for the shine.
I also tested the Minwax stain on a Krylon enamel painted surface after it had cured for 10 days, and the Minwax showed no reaction to the painted surface either. Just spread it out even in thin coats and let it dry for a couple of days.
The Minwax is designed for wood where it soaks in as much as anything, of course you know that, but on a non-porous surface like styrene, or cured gloss enamel, it's kinda like a wash, and will take a while to lay down and dry. With patience, and however many coats you wish to give it for color depth, again waiting for it to dry, you can have a pretty nice simulated wood surface. The arts and crafts acrylic dry-brush is the key to it here I have found. Then give a clear protective spray urethane finish, and you're done!
Thanks for the tip, KB1!!
