Post by RLFoster on Apr 28, 2021 13:54:21 GMT -6
Fellow Members,
After nearly 4 months (on the calendar) and probably 60 real days of work, the construction phase of this project is finally finished. Well, I'll call it 98% finished until I have one last chance to go over all the different instruction sheets and make sure I haven't missed something. Here's the last construction update for the project.
When I last posted, the next item on the agenda was somewhat up in the air and ultimately I decided to work on the suspension, running gear, and tracks. While not quite as bad as other kits I've tackled, this kit has a large number of parts to prep. Unfortunately, the quality of the parts leaves much to be desired...more later.
First, I attached some skids to the side plates and then removed, cleaned, and assembled all the road wheels and return rollers for both sides. This is a shot of one hull side with all of the other parts prepped and ready to go:
And here's one side with the road wheels and return rollers dry-fit:
Next came the tracks. These were provided on four sprues, where two sprues accounted for the links on one side of the vehicle. They links come in short, seven link lengths as well as regular single links. Here's a shot of the links for just one side before removal:
Unfortunately, here's where the quality issue raises itself. As you can see from this shot of a seven link length and a single link, there is just a “slight” issue with ejector pin marks...to put it mildly!!!:
So once all the links for each side were removed, out came the putty and every single ejector pin hole had to be filled, allowed to dry, and sanded. Here's what just ONE SIDE looked like just after I applied the putty:
Once all the putty on both sides had dried, it needed to be sanded as did all the sprue attach points. With everything sanded, I was left with two Dixie cups full of links ready to go:
Meanwhile, I built and attached the idler assembly which helped lead to my decision on how to paint and finish the lower hull...again, more later. The idler wheel is supported against the hull with an arm that pivots from a large, box-like structure protruding from the hull. I am unsure of the exact purpose of this design, but I'm assuming it might be a means of preventing mud build-up in front of the idler:
After assembling the two halves of the drive sprocket, I had all the parts necessary to complete these assemblies. So now the question was, “How do I want to construct, paint, and finish all these parts?”
As most armor modeler know, there are numerous ways to attack tracks and running gear. There are probably two main factors on how to proceed beyond personal preference – the type of tracks being built (workable, metal, resin, kit plastic, vinyl, or rubber band) and the specific geometry of the kit. The geometry of the kit will determine the ease in attaching the runner gear and tracks after painting and finishing or in fact whether this option is even possible.
In this case, the fact that the idler assembly really should be attached before painting, the design of the return rollers, the type of track, and the visibility of the lower parts once the kit is done, all led me to the use one of my least favorite (but easiest) techniques...painting and finishing everything after assembly.
With this decided, I put together the tracks for each side, ensured the track sag looked appropriate, and then glued everything to lock it in place. This completed the lower assemblies and here are shots of both sides once I was done:
With that done, I next moved on to the exhaust pipes. These parts required the addition of pipe joints and supports to attach them to the hull sides and hold them away from the tracks. The rear of the pipes were solid and needed to be drilled out (no photo) but otherwise the kit parts look the part once completed:
That brought me to the railings. I was actually quite surprised by how easily these parts went on the vehicle at this point. I did need to add 68 tiny PE brackets to the attach points of every vertical and horizontal rail, but once that was done, the assemblies went into place fairly well. There are minor bends and “imperfections” in the rails, but to me that gives them a realistic, used look:
So, construction is...nearly...done! Here's a shot of everything dry-fit together:
The vehicle will be painted in four separate assemblies and two small parts. The lower hull, upper hull, gun mount, and main gun, will all be primed and base coated separately (as well as the two small upper brackets holding the main gun in place). I'll show all of this procedure as painting proceeds.
Thanks again for looking in and for the support.
Until next time...
After nearly 4 months (on the calendar) and probably 60 real days of work, the construction phase of this project is finally finished. Well, I'll call it 98% finished until I have one last chance to go over all the different instruction sheets and make sure I haven't missed something. Here's the last construction update for the project.
When I last posted, the next item on the agenda was somewhat up in the air and ultimately I decided to work on the suspension, running gear, and tracks. While not quite as bad as other kits I've tackled, this kit has a large number of parts to prep. Unfortunately, the quality of the parts leaves much to be desired...more later.
First, I attached some skids to the side plates and then removed, cleaned, and assembled all the road wheels and return rollers for both sides. This is a shot of one hull side with all of the other parts prepped and ready to go:
And here's one side with the road wheels and return rollers dry-fit:
Next came the tracks. These were provided on four sprues, where two sprues accounted for the links on one side of the vehicle. They links come in short, seven link lengths as well as regular single links. Here's a shot of the links for just one side before removal:
Unfortunately, here's where the quality issue raises itself. As you can see from this shot of a seven link length and a single link, there is just a “slight” issue with ejector pin marks...to put it mildly!!!:
So once all the links for each side were removed, out came the putty and every single ejector pin hole had to be filled, allowed to dry, and sanded. Here's what just ONE SIDE looked like just after I applied the putty:
Once all the putty on both sides had dried, it needed to be sanded as did all the sprue attach points. With everything sanded, I was left with two Dixie cups full of links ready to go:
Meanwhile, I built and attached the idler assembly which helped lead to my decision on how to paint and finish the lower hull...again, more later. The idler wheel is supported against the hull with an arm that pivots from a large, box-like structure protruding from the hull. I am unsure of the exact purpose of this design, but I'm assuming it might be a means of preventing mud build-up in front of the idler:
After assembling the two halves of the drive sprocket, I had all the parts necessary to complete these assemblies. So now the question was, “How do I want to construct, paint, and finish all these parts?”
As most armor modeler know, there are numerous ways to attack tracks and running gear. There are probably two main factors on how to proceed beyond personal preference – the type of tracks being built (workable, metal, resin, kit plastic, vinyl, or rubber band) and the specific geometry of the kit. The geometry of the kit will determine the ease in attaching the runner gear and tracks after painting and finishing or in fact whether this option is even possible.
In this case, the fact that the idler assembly really should be attached before painting, the design of the return rollers, the type of track, and the visibility of the lower parts once the kit is done, all led me to the use one of my least favorite (but easiest) techniques...painting and finishing everything after assembly.
With this decided, I put together the tracks for each side, ensured the track sag looked appropriate, and then glued everything to lock it in place. This completed the lower assemblies and here are shots of both sides once I was done:
With that done, I next moved on to the exhaust pipes. These parts required the addition of pipe joints and supports to attach them to the hull sides and hold them away from the tracks. The rear of the pipes were solid and needed to be drilled out (no photo) but otherwise the kit parts look the part once completed:
That brought me to the railings. I was actually quite surprised by how easily these parts went on the vehicle at this point. I did need to add 68 tiny PE brackets to the attach points of every vertical and horizontal rail, but once that was done, the assemblies went into place fairly well. There are minor bends and “imperfections” in the rails, but to me that gives them a realistic, used look:
So, construction is...nearly...done! Here's a shot of everything dry-fit together:
The vehicle will be painted in four separate assemblies and two small parts. The lower hull, upper hull, gun mount, and main gun, will all be primed and base coated separately (as well as the two small upper brackets holding the main gun in place). I'll show all of this procedure as painting proceeds.
Thanks again for looking in and for the support.
Until next time...