SdKfz 251 Ausf C - 1 Sep 2020

[JCON]

Well played Robert!!!

[feldgrau23]

Excellent fix Robert. When you mentioned replacing the drive sprockets I was wondering why you didn't just add some styrene bits to it. Then you did and answered my question.

[ogrejohn]

Nicely done Robert!

[BUCKY]

Great fix, RL! I prolly wudda lost a good number of those teenie rollers to the carpet monster!
If it called for forty, I wudda most likely had to cut fifty of 'em!! LOL

[JCON]

Ain't that the truth Bucky!!!

[Dukemaddog]

Brilliant fix Robert! Nicely done!

[RLFoster]

Greetings fellow OSM members. I hope your respective weekends are going well.

As I mentioned in the Shoutbox a while back, a bit of a lull combined with a bunch of seasonal chores and errands have all conspired to slow down my modeling time. All of that and my decision to start working on the fenders and tracks before any more painting means that progress has been very, very slow.

To start things off, I pulled the fenders out after cleaning up the attach points, I noticed that the undersides were riddled with HUGE ejector pin marks. So I filled them all with putty and put them aside for a full day before sanding them down. Here's what they look like at the moment:



Since the fenders were on hold, I shifted my attention to the tracks. In this kit, the tracks are provided as individual track links that actually come in two parts – the cast links and the outer pads that hold the links together. These parts are extremely small, so before we get started, here's a photo showing the upper and lower sides of each link and each pad next to a scale:



So, I started looking at these parts closely and realized several things. First, the detail on all surfaces is outstanding. Second, other than the attachment points, there's virtually no clean-up necessary. And third, the links are designed to be assembled as FULLY WORKABLE LENGTHS! To the best of my knowledge, this is the first kit (other than the other Dragon 251's) that offer injection molded, fully workable, individual track links.

Here's how the tracks go together. First you take two links and drop the pins on either side into the slots on the link in front of it:



Next, you'll note how the pegs on the bottom of the track pad are oriented. There's one large center peg and then two, smaller pegs that are designed to follow the two link pins in the slots and hold them in place:



The key to making the whole thing work is being EXTREMELY careful in making sure you put to smallest drop of glue possible in the center hole of the link and get NO GLUE at all on or near either slot on the link. If done correctly, the pad's center peg will hold it in place while the two glue-free pegs will hold the link pins in the slots and allow them to move freely. Then you just drop the next link into position and continue until finished:



Here's a photo showing a 15 link length completed and how it can be rolled into a tight spiral:




Finally, after probably 4 or 5 hours of work over three days, I've managed to finish ONE SIDE of the tracks, but man, do they look fantastic:



I slid the wheels on to one side of the build and test fit the track. I actually had to add on link (and the link count is NOT historically accurate) to get a track that looks like this:



So, assuming I can work the other side at the same (or slightly faster) rate, it will be at least two more days before the other side is done and at least three days (more likely four) until the fenders are done and ready to be installed.

Until next time...

[JCON]

Those look amazing!!! Nice job!!!

[BUCKY]

You make that look easy, sir!! Nice looking trackage!!

[feldgrau23]

Those tracks look fantastic. Excellent work. I wish all of Dragons tracks were that simple to assemble.

[ARMORGUY]

Killer tracks sir!

[ogrejohn]

Nice trackage Robert! 

[rustybaer]

Dare I? Sure: those tracks are sexy!

[JED]

Great result all round and as has been said,great tracks

[RLFoster]

Wow, 12 January!

If I only knew then what I know now. Little did I realize that this would be my last model building post for over 6 MONTHS! And what a half year it's been. To call the first half of 2020 ground-breaking and once-in-a-lifetime are in some ways understatements. I have had long modeling lulls in the past, but none this long in well over 10 years. Here's hoping it doesn't happen again.

First, let me say, "Thank you" to those who chimed in on the track work before I shut things down. I'm sorry I didn't acknowledge your comments earlier...they are appreciated.

Second, I can now report that I actually accomplished model work this morning. Before sitting down to type this post, I dusted off the model, mixed up some paint, and shot the driver's compartment so that it can be detailed before I close up the hull. I know, it's not much, but considering the layoff, I'm pleased to have gotten anything done at this point. I'm planning to go back and seal coat everything in about 30 minutes.

Hopefully, this motivational improvement will continue and I will get some progress photos up in the next day or two.

One thing's for certain, this may end up being the longest build I've had - start to finish - in my life.

Until next time...

[JCON]

Welcome back my friend! No worries on the break, we all have them... some of us many throughout the year, I had a few weeks recently where I didn't want anything to do with building and just walked by the desk looked, said no and went back to other stuff... didn't even know why?

[BUCKY]

Glad to see ya getting back to it. I have lull periods for various reasons....some my fault, some not! LOL

[dogfish7 (R.I.P.)]

Glad you made it back Robert.

[RLFoster]

Thanks for the, "Welcome Back".

What do you know...I have progress pics to post today! I masked off the front of the drivers area, painted it with Dark Gray, and then detailed out all the do-dads.







I'll probably seal the upper and lower hulls tomorrow.

Until next time...

[JCON]

Nice comeback Robert!!!