Madill 071 Mobile Tower Yarder

[Beekster]

Mar 30, 2021 14:57:30 GMT -6 JCON said:

If it is too much try a bigger sponge over that with your base color to bring it back a bit... dab a lot of the paint off the sponge on a paper towel or piece of cardboard so its almost like a dry brush technique...

That is the method I use, but I forget that I can dial it back with an application of the base color.  Particularly easy with white; might be a bit tougher with the orange.  That will definitely require more Dullcote, since it is a gloss color.

[JCON]

Always worth it if you are unhappy with it... you can also use a brush with some light thinner to remove some of the color if you had done a clear coat before you did the rust...

[JCON]

You can also do a large brush with the base coat color and stipple it over it to tone it down...

[Beekster]

I did find a different sponge, and used it and one of the make-up sponges for the first pass with a dark rust color I mixed up:








I think this is moving in the right direction, though some of the spots look a bit too streaked in an odd direction. I was able to clean the bigger sponge with thinner, so I can use it again with a couple of progressively lighter tones. The make-up sponges I have dozens of and it's cheap to resupply.  Some remedial stippling with the base colors will be necessary along the edges of the various protruding structures, since this application method tends to make those edges uniformly coated in rusty brown.

[JCON]

Much better Beekster!!! I like it!!!

[JCON]

Some streaking in a downward direction is ok as these are from the wet Pacific Northwest!

[Beekster]

Mar 30, 2021 17:49:14 GMT -6 JCON said:

Some streaking in a downward direction is ok as these are from the wet Pacific Northwest!

Yes, but I need to be careful about what is considered "down".  In this case, down should be perpendicular to the long axis of the spar.  I suppose some angled streaks could be justified, since the lines would all be tied off wherever it seemed convenient when in transport mode; the lines were somewhat slack and could rub against the spar.

[dogfish7 (R.I.P.)]

What's not to like?!

[JCON]

I have faith in you buddy!!!

[JED]

A world of difference there Beekster 👍👍

[Dukemaddog]

Stunning work Beekster! That is looking exceptionally realistic.

[reserve]

Good work on the rusty spots it's very convincing

There are other mediums to try for the more subtle application if you wish to try it, they would be MIG or AK rust washes. They are enamel base which may not work with your paint job unless it's well sealed. The advantage they offer is a very low surface tension so they will not bead up, and they will cover evenly. Once dry to the touch they can be streaked with a brush damp with enamel thinner or mineral spirit to a great effect.

I did the rusting on the Autocar log truck and trailer with these products using track wash as a base and light rust over the top. Several applications of both were used to get it where it is now, perhaps this idea will help

Regards,
Mark

[JCON]

Migs Ammo products are very good for that Mark!!! Well worth the money!!!

[JED]

To protect the paintwork before the washes are used will acrylic based varnish work or will it need to be enamel to enable streaking ?

[Beekster]

I haven't done much with MiG's liquid stuff, though the Oil & Grease mixture is being used here. On Monday I discovered that one of the local hobby shops now has some MiG stuff, so when I have more time to spend there I'll investigate further. For sealing the base color, I use the old standby Testor's Glosscote (for decals) and Dullcote, which are lacquers and still available despite the demise of Model Master enamels. That has generally proven durable when using techniques such as stippling dots of oil paint and blending/streaking those, or washes with enamels. It's rare to have problems with the lacquers if they have had sufficient time to really cure. About a decade ago I did have a disaster when applying a wash with Liquin to a project on a deadline that had been moved up a month on me; the lacquer hadn't completely cured and the stuff (which Zaloga recommends) ate through the base paints. I had to sand and repaint most of the glacis, and the model wasn't finished when I had to shoot pictures for publication.

For this project, I will stipple another layer (I'm using Model Master Rust and my last bottle of Burt Umber) in a lighter shade, then I think I will seal that with some thinned Dullcote so the finish doesn't get too thick. After that cures, stipple some standard Rust and streak with a brush, and perhaps tone down with the base colors. Then a last thinned spray of Dullcote, because the orange is glossy.

[reserve]

Has to be an acrylic Jed, otherwise the wash and subsequent work with the damp brush will attack the paint underneath resulting in an awful mess. This technique works best with a glossy clear coat as well otherwise the wash will bloom. Of course if the finish paint layer is an acrylic such as Model Masters or Mission Models the clear layer is not necessary.

[JCON]

As Mark said the Acrylic clear isn't required if you used Arcylic base paint but Mig recommends you clear it anyway to protect it...

[Beekster]

And a lacquer ought to work too, whatever enamel formulation MiG or AK use. Their thinners can't be aggressive enough to dissolve a fully cured lacquer. As much as these fellows really want everyone to use their products as an integrated system, they also know that artistic & materials tastes vary and they have to make their products adaptable to use with others, within reason.

[JED]

Many thanks guys, the Mig book I bought recently doesn't say what type of lacquer to use in respect to acrylic/enamel hence the question. Some extra gloss acrylic varnish will be on order 👍

[JCON]

Glad to be of help!!!