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Post by JCON on Mar 22, 2021 13:51:41 GMT -6
Looking well used!!!
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Post by Beekster on Mar 23, 2021 9:22:43 GMT -6
  What is going on here?, you are probably asking yourself. What new madness is Beekster up to? At the moment, research and thinking. I've decided this yarder will be finished with the spar up in yarding position. I originally intended to make the spar poseable to display up or down, but the closer I get to final assembly the more I realize that to actually pull pins and slack off the fixed guylines to lower the spar would be an operation fraught with danger for the model. So maybe this one won't be regularly displayed on the transporter. You know where this is heading, don't you? Eventually another thread with another yarder, start to finish this time. So look at the photos above. The top photo shows the current Sherman-based project with two lengths of basswood strip in front. Those represent the width between the inner edge of the tracks and the outer edge of the tracks, in scale, of a SANY SY215-C9 excavator. The second photo shows the overall track width overlaid on the trailer. Why this particular excavator? Well, one excavator chassis frame looks more or less like another and this one is available from the US distributor for $49.95. Purchasing one of these and using the track frame would make for a nifty basis for a second yarder, a more modern rebuilt one like the images further up this thread. A model that would require somewhat less obsessive detail, since the engine bay would be more completely covered. As for the current project, the deck lined up a little crooked but it's too late to do anything about that now. And the cab suffered a fumble while test fitting and the roof panel broke, so I need to make another one of those along with the new exhaust pipe. |
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Post by Beekster on Mar 23, 2021 9:51:54 GMT -6
Well, that was fun while it lasted. I got my sums wrong. The distance between the inner edges of the tracks on the modern excavator scales out at 1.777", which is about sixty thou or just over two inches too narrow to use a Sherman hull. The treads are 31" wide, much wider than a Sherman, so a unit rebuilt on an excavator frame would be much wider on the ground and more stable. My measuring stick for the overall width is accurate. Something like this approach could be tried:      This is 70141, photographed on a misty morning in early October, 2017, near Idanha, OR along the Santiam Highway. Yarder 70105, still on Sherman running gear, was there too. When I last passed through there in early November 2019, #700105 was there alone. I don't know if either machine survives. Obviously both were working in the area during those years, but I have no idea where they were when the big fires came through last September. If they were working somewhere up there, they probably burned. If they were in this yard adjacent to the highway, they might well have survived. No tall timber immediately nearby and only low scrub grass & gravel in the lot. Here's a shot of #700105 and a loader taken on that 2019 trip. Note the marks in the gravel where #70141 has been driven out. Not much to burn right here, and a low brush fire probably wouldn't be able to set the machine ablaze. I hope.  |
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Post by JCON on Mar 23, 2021 10:13:00 GMT -6
Wow...
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Post by Beekster on Mar 23, 2021 11:20:25 GMT -6
OK, gentlemen, your vote counts! Which size muffler should I go with on the new exhaust pipe, the skinny one or the fatter one?   |
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Post by dogfish7 (R.I.P.) on Mar 23, 2021 12:38:09 GMT -6
I like how the skinnier ones look on the Rig. Awesome work, by the way, Beekster!  |
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Post by Dukemaddog on Mar 23, 2021 13:01:00 GMT -6
OK, gentlemen, your vote counts! Which size muffler should I go with on the new exhaust pipe, the skinny one or the fatter one?
Where is it? I can't tell the difference between these two pics.
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Post by Beekster on Mar 23, 2021 13:09:49 GMT -6
Look closely, Duke. The top picture has an OD of .281" tube for the muffler, the bottom pic has .343" sleeved on top of that. The base tube is .156" diameter, or not quite five and a half inches in scale. I like my turbos to breathe free, with no backpressure...  So far one vote for skinny; that scales at 9.8" diameter for the muffler. The big one scales at almost exactly a foot (12.005"). |
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Post by Dukemaddog on Mar 23, 2021 13:14:52 GMT -6
Look closely, Duke. The top picture has an OD of .281" tube for the muffler, the bottom pic has .343" sleeved on top of that. The base tube is .156" diameter, or not quite five and a half inches in scale. I like my turbos to breathe free, with no backpressure... So far one vote for skinny; that scales at 9.8" diameter for the muffler. The big one scales at almost exactly a foot (12.005").
Okay, I looked closer, even blew the pics up but I cannot see anything that looks to me like a muffler. The rusty thing is the muffler? If so, I can't tell the difference in diameter; it looks too close to me. If it is not the rusty thing, then where on this beastie is it located?
I apologize for being such a blind idiot.
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Post by JCON on Mar 23, 2021 13:22:30 GMT -6
Look closely, Duke. The top picture has an OD of .281" tube for the muffler, the bottom pic has .343" sleeved on top of that. The base tube is .156" diameter, or not quite five and a half inches in scale. I like my turbos to breathe free, with no backpressure... So far one vote for skinny; that scales at 9.8" diameter for the muffler. The big one scales at almost exactly a foot (12.005").
Okay, I looked closer, even blew the pics up but I cannot see anything that looks to me like a muffler. The rusty thing is the muffler? If so, I can't tell the difference in diameter; it looks too close to me. If it is not the rusty thing, then where on this beastie is it located?
I apologize for being such a blind idiot.
I'm with Bruce and prefer the smaller diameter one... |
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Post by Beekster on Mar 23, 2021 14:46:12 GMT -6
Two votes for the smaller pipe so far...
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DPNM
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Post by DPNM on Mar 23, 2021 16:29:16 GMT -6
Some more great progress on this project Beekster and the reference pics add a ton of info. A pic being worth a thousand words couldn't be truer in this build.
Add one more vote for the smaller diameter muffler. There isn't much size difference, the smaller one just looks more right to my eye.
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Post by Beekster on Mar 23, 2021 17:05:22 GMT -6
Three votes for smaller is good enough for me. So shall it be written, so shall it be done.
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Post by Beekster on Mar 23, 2021 18:04:21 GMT -6
Some more great progress on this project Beekster and the reference pics add a ton of info. A pic being worth a thousand words couldn't be truer in this build. Add one more vote for the smaller diameter muffler. There isn't much size difference, the smaller one just looks more right to my eye. Absolutely right! Lots of differences between my current build, which is rather closely based on #70097 (but with standard track rather than CDP) and 70141. The excavator frame allows for a squared-off hull, which would be straightforward to build. Serial #70141 also has a fourth powered guyline and a fancier cab; a different engine (Silver Series Detroit inline-6?), and various other detail differences. The screened box at left front is intriguing, and I'm not sure what's in there. When I blow up the image, I see shadowy shapes in there and four round patterns of silvered bolt heads that secure round plates to whatever is in there. Perhaps the hydraulic pumps that operate the tracks and the spar lift cylinder? That would make sense; they have to go somewhere and the rest of the real estate is spoken for. Engine and winch stuff in back, big winches in the middle, more winch stuff at the right front. The pumps could be put down in front in the hull, I suppose, but access would be a problem. The track width looks to be right on twelve feet, which is the width of the yarder itself minus the triangular guyline outrigger on the right side. Using a die-cast excavator frame with a ten and a half foot overall track width would look reasonably close, I think. I guess the only way to find out is to buy one and take it apart to find out. And start another thread for a second yarder... |
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Post by JCON on Mar 23, 2021 19:31:42 GMT -6
Yay we win the vote!!!
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reserve
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Post by reserve on Mar 24, 2021 9:53:29 GMT -6
Wicked nice my man I like what's happening here. For what it's worth the smaller diameter looks better to me also.
The application of built up oil and grease goo seems appropriate in its area; have you considered sprinkling a bit of powdered graphite for some volume to it in places?
Regards,
Mark
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Post by Beekster on Mar 24, 2021 11:01:35 GMT -6
Don't have powdered graphite, Mark, but I'm open to alternatives. I've been mulling this over. Look here:   These look aft under the forward Winch bedplate and show the driveshaft and supporting structure. The volume of crud in there is impressive; lots of settled dust, twigs and wood chips embedded in a couple of inches of toxic petroleum distillate goo. I've got several colors of static grass, and could chop that up to sprinkle it on another application of the MiG product. I don't want to buy diorama leaves because they really aren't the thing for these beasts because they work in conifer forests. Other than that, I have some stuff for model railroad groundwork (had that for 50 years now!), but the stuff is awfully uniform in size. Might be worth mixing some up with finely chopped static grass to see what it looks like? Hmmm.... |
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reserve
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Post by reserve on Mar 24, 2021 11:37:37 GMT -6
Yup kind of reminds me of the engine on my '94 Toyota pickup
Powdered graphite is used for, amongst other things, sticky lock cylinders for lubrication, I also use it in revolver trigger/hammer groups for the same purpose. It can be found in a small plastic tube about the size of a tube of zinc oxide at the hardware store...unless of course the state of CA has deemed it to be a vicious poison and has banned its sale. If this is the case I've used fine ground flour in the past which takes some experimentation in mixing 'cause it's white. This is why I prefer graphite as it's already black.
Yes a mix of dark green and brown chopped static grass should simulate pine needles quite handsomly I would think
Regards,
Mark
Come to think of it, I've also used straight from the tube lamp black oil paint for volume, just blob it on and stipple until the desired effect is achieved. The major drawback to this is extended drying time which is why the technique lingers in the back of what I use for a mind and does not get used too often
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Post by JCON on Mar 24, 2021 12:09:12 GMT -6
Go to the spice rack and mix up some thyme and rosemary leaves... they look like broken pine needles and your model will smell amazing... dill weed works well also...
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Post by Beekster on Mar 24, 2021 12:10:36 GMT -6
Mark, my good man, you are a genius! This is what I found in the stash and I chopped the green static grass and wheat grass stalks more finely as seen in the cup:  And the results:   Sprinkle the stuff on, daub in more Oil & Grease Stain, mix it around, sprinkle more stuff. It is drying now, and if I turn the model upside down some of this stuff will fall out. And I will have to carefully prop the model on foam in that position to eventually add the tracks. But I can make more of the mixed organic stuff, and sprinkle it on later and push it around with a soft brush and leave it be. This ought to be done in the engine bay too, but I won't because the sightlines are so restricted in there that it really wouldn't be worth the effort. |
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So far one vote for skinny; that scales at 9.8" diameter for the muffler. The big one scales at almost exactly a foot (12.005").
